As we made our approach approximately 200 feet over the Gulf, I could spot schools of reds and bait between Louisiana and the Chandeleur Islands. There were bigger silhouettes as well, likely the bull sharks that come here to feed on the smorgasbord that congregates around the island chain. Our transportation, a single-engine Cessna equipped with a pair of floats, continued to get lower over the water. Soon the plane was skimming the water’s surface, and the pilot was dialing back the throttle, landing the vessel in a couple of feet of water on the western edge of the island. As we disembarked into the water, I looked for any of the sharks I’d spotted from the air. With the coast clear, I waded ashore with Cajun Vista Lodge Capt. Theophile Bourgeois IV.
Landfall in the Chandeleurs
“You never know what you’ll find out there, from the various species of fish, birds, seashells or random treasures washed ashore. Years ago, my dad made the news when he found an old waterlogged brick of marijuana washed ashore,” says Bourgeois, who is picking up where his father left off. Capt. Theophile Bourgeois III was a larger-than-life figure who passed too soon, a Cajun’s Cajun who loved to share the wonders of Louisiana, the islands, and the epic fishing the region is known for with as many folks as possible.
Though there are many reasons to visit the island chain, the main attraction is the fishing. The Chandeleurs sit approximately 50 miles from the Cajun Vista Lodge. Out there in the Gulf, the labyrinth provided by the twisted shorelines offers structure to bait and predators alike. The main draw is the redfish and trout, which appear in both size and numbers at the right time of year. Sometimes, Bourgeois says, anglers end up sitting on the beach with sore arms before the clock strikes 10.
One way to reach the islands is by floatplane, as we did. Leaving from our base at the Cajun Vista Lodge, it’s about an hourlong flight filled with plenty of sights. Pilots typically scout for fish as they go and deposit the plane as close as they can to a school of feeding reds or specks. Once on the ground, anglers wade along the shore. Composed of hard-packed sand, it’s easy to cover ground on foot.
Though the fish encountered can sometimes be quite large, the guides at the Cajun Vista prefer to take a light-tackle approach. They outfit guests with medium-light 7-foot spinning rods spooled with light braid. The sand flats offer wide expanses for fish to run without obstructions to break anglers off on, so there’s no need to put the brakes on quickly. Gentle pressure lands fish and fills stringers. Just be ready to beat feet if any sharks show up.
In a characteristically Cajun manner, lure selection is also kept simple. “It’s hard to beat the bone-colored Bomber Badonk-A-Donk or an H&H spoon in gold,” Bourgeois says. “And then there’s our favorite ‘purple boys,’ an H&H purple-and-chartreuse cocahoe minnow with a ¼-ounce jig head. I’ll also bring ⅛- and ⅜-ounce jig heads to adjust for different depths and size fish.”
When to Go
It’s been said that the two best times to go fishing are when it’s raining and when it’s not. Bourgeois has similar feelings about his favorite islands. “You can have successful fishing at the Chandeleurs year-round, you just have to play the weather. April through June is hard to beat for big specks before the summer heat gets to be unbearable.”
When the temperature drops again, the fishing heats up. “The fall is great before the fronts start moving in. One of my favorite times to fish the islands is actually winter. It produces some of the most exciting fishing I’ve ever experienced, when massive schools of redfish roam the island and you can feel the drumming of thousands of hungry bulls at your feet.”
Water temperature is also a key part of the equation, explains Bourgeois. “When the water temps get into the 70s, we start seeing great trout activity. As they climb to the mid-80s, the fish generally stay in deeper waters, so the fishing gets tougher. The ideal temperatures are from the mid-70s to low 80s.”
After the Storms
As barrier islands, the Chandeleurs chain does its part to help protect coastal Louisiana from tropical storms and hurricanes. Its 50-mile width buffers the mainland by taking the brunt of the weather that rolls in off the Gulf, which means the islands have been badly damaged many times over the last century and a half or so. Over time, settlements have sprung up and been knocked down by the whims of the weather.
The first lighthouse was erected there around 1848, serving as a beacon for mariners crossing the wide expanse of the Gulf. This only lasted for four years until the light and the lighthouse keeper’s quarters were taken out by a hurricane in 1852. It was replaced by a brick structure in 1885, which withstood a few notable storms, including a hurricane in the fall of 1893, though it was damaged badly enough to need replacement.
A replacement was built in 1895, and it stood for better than a century, though not without issue. Erosion took most of the land underneath it, leaving it and the keeper’s house standing on their pilings. Hurricane Camille took the dwelling down in 1969, and Katrina took the tower in 2005, before dealing one of the most striking blows to Louisiana.
Katrina wasn’t the last hurricane to wreak havoc on the islands and mainland. In 2021, Hurricane Ida blew through the Chandeleurs and hit the mainland not far from the mouth of the Mississippi River. The strong winds didn’t do the islands any favors and destroyed some of the structure.
Read Next: Targeting Redfish in Louisiana
But the true devastation was felt by the folks that call Louisiana home; it was the second-most damaging storm in the state’s history. The 150 mph winds knocked down everything in their path, including the Cajun Vista Lodge and the town surrounding it. The storm surge, some 4 feet of water, took out the entire first story and most of the equipment on the premises, including the boats and planes.
Despite the adversity, Bourgeois wasn’t going to let the storm wipe out his father’s legacy. Slowly but surely, he built everything back: the docks, the airplane hangar and the lodge. You can see his unique stamp on all the furnishings inside, many of which were hand-built by Bourgeois using reclaimed materials. The result is a comfortable lodge in the Cajun tradition, complete with the great food you’d expect.
So, pick your favorite species, choose the right time, and don’t forget to try the gumbo.
